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Del Popolo started as a food truck, and is less than a year old as a brick-and-mortar establishment, but already it has made the SF Chronicle’s top 100 restaurants in the Bay Area, and for good reason. The well-charred, wood-fired pizza is comparable to the trendier artisanal pies of New York City.

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Margherita, with plenty of charred, blistery spots. The dough for these was a bit thicker than the Neapolitan pizza I have eaten in Naples (and it was very chewy).

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The butterball potato pizza, with leeks, fontina cheese and slightly spicy-hot honey. Delicious.

But what really caught my attention was this sensational, simple salad of summer squash, cucumber, toasted almonds and buttermilk dressing, seasoned with an Italian herb called nepitella.

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This is a grand prize winner in my book. The squash is raw and sliced very thin on a mandoline. Nepitella is also called calamint. To substitute, you might try mixing chopped fresh mint and oregano.