The sampler plate is highly recommended: Italian butter beans with meyer lemon and tarragon vinaigrette (best thing on the plate); spring pea and radish salad; warm roasted cauliflower with lemon oil, pepper flakes and mint; pickled gold and red beets; Bellwether fromage blanc with chives and grilled herb toasts; olives.

I had the fresh spring roll with carrots, jicama, daikon, cabbage, jalapeños, and tofu, served with peanut sauce and grilled beech mushroom/radish salad. They cut this up to show off the colors, but it would have been easier to eat had the roll remained intact. The salad was sensational, the mushrooms richly flavored and robust.

This was the butternut squash gratin with poblanos, chilies, smoked cheddar and custard. I thought it was more like a timbale than a gratin, but it was delicious. It came with some creamy grilled polenta and a side of broccolini.

I was slightly disappointed with the papardelle, dressed with morels, English peas, snap peas, spinach, herb butter and grana padano cheese. The dish was a bit more watery than it needed to be, but the flavors were good. It’s hard to resist fresh morels.

For dessert, nectarine cake, a berry compote and a stunning nectarine sherbet. Simple flavors of the fruit–paired with a glass of Sauternes for him and an espresso for me. Perfect.