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Usually it doesn’t pay to select a wine because of the cool label. This one is an exception. And it doesn’t hurt that Otto’s Constant Dream ($15.00) is a perfect exemplar of my favorite varietal and region: Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc.

OttosDream

Once you have sniffed and tasted a couple of these, you never forget the distinctive profile: highly aromatic, with strong floral notes and citrus undertones, crisp acidity balanced by just enough sweetness to make the wine easy-drinking, and a lovely long finish. These wines are not thin, thirst-quenching patio pounders. They have a rich, full quality which makes them drinkable year round. A few of them are more restrained, even cerebral, though I wouldn’t count Otto in that category despite his label. This is the lush floral style, stopping just short of louche. Yum.