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Despite my year-round love for rosés, I sometimes find them a bit one-note. But not this one by Maison Philippe Viallet, from the Apremont dénomination in Savoy, in the Alpine foothills. Various tasting notes mention raspberry, “a touch of bubble gum,” and fruit galore, especially in the finish. What I notice is that it’s more complex than most, and yes, with a ripe scent and flavor layered beneath a hint of something bon-bon like–a raspberry pastille.

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The delicate color is a plus in this rosé from Gamay grapes (about $15).

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Vineyards and mountains: what a heavenly place to make wine.